Ferragosto
One of the most important holidays, and certainly among the most awaited, on the Italian calendar is today, August 15th. What is Ferragosto?
Today, in modern times, one might write it off as ‘that time of year when Italians flock to the coast’ or ‘that time of year that all the strikes happen’ or even ‘those weeks that Italy grinds to a halt’. All true perhaps. But it is a much more significant holiday than current social media might imply.
Rooted deep within Italy’s past and culture, Ferragosto originated with Empire Augustus in 18BCE. Take a minute to let that sink in. Italy has been acknowledging hard work with mandated national rest since 18BCE, while in the USA, Labor Day originated in 1894. But I digress. The name Ferragosto derives from ‘Feriae Augusti’.
Feriae Augusti or the festival holidays of Emperor Augustus, started as a day of rest for all the hard labor around summer harvest and was originally celebrated August 1st. Workers would wish their masters “Buon Ferragosto” and they would get a monetary bonus. Multiple events celebrating harvest and the end of a long period of intense agricultural labor created the ‘Augustali’, or the longer period of rest and celebration lasting through August 15th, which is still tradition today.
During the Renaissance and under the auspices of the Catholic Church, the holiday became law and the official ‘day’ was moved to August 15th to coincide with The Assumption of Mary. As a religious holiday, or Holy Day of Obligation, the holiday is celebrated with mass and a large feast. As a slightly more secular holiday from ancient Rome, celebrated with horse races and parades of decorated beasts of burden - floral clad oxen, donkeys and mules - can still be seen today in festivals across Italy during August. Carrying on the traditions of all eras combined of Roman Empire, the Catholic holiday and the Renaissance, the Palio dell'Assunta is alive and well today in our beloved Siena.
The more modern associations of traveling during the holiday started in the Fascist era under Mussolini. Mussolini offered ‘holiday trains’ at extremely discounted prices so all workers could travel outside their home to gain culture awareness in a larger city, just relax at the seaside or take refuge in the cooler temps of mountain resorts.
In years following, these one or three day holidays were further extended into weeks if not the full month. Most of Italy used to shut down the entire month of August, now it is common that companies will close for a mandated two-week holiday.
History, religious events and cultural festivities all collide on this important Italian holiday. For Italians, it is an important time of year. Road trips, family reunions, picnics, festivals, mountain resorts and long days at the seaside are cornerstones of August or Agosto.
How did we, as transplants, celebrate Ferragosto?
We have followed the lead of those in our home in Abruzzo by heading back to the mountain to watch our town come alive. Most of the year it is vacant, but in Agosto, it magically transforms into a big town again. Celebrations, festivals, mountain top picnics, long days at the seaside, late nights in the piazza, extended families and friends reuniting, kids of all ages forming age/gender cliches all collide into cherished time. Then of course, we return to Toscana and our Siena for the all-important Palio. Delighting a unique energy that further fuels our passion for ‘our Italy’.
August is a special time in Italy. Sure you hear the moans of ‘too many people’, ‘it’s so crowded', ‘everything stops’, ‘I can’t find anything open’, ‘blah blah blah’. True its not ideal to be a tourist in Italy in August. But, living here, there is something to be said about the history of this holiday. And something special to experience it ‘like a local’.
BUON FERRAGOSTO!
If you want to brave August in Italy, we invite you to check out The Conciergist . We can plan your entire trip, customized to your liking.